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1930 mah battery...
Since the 5800 and the N900 use the same battery, would this work in the N900? I'm ABSOLUTELY excited about this! getting near 2000MAH!
http://cgi.ebay.es/HIGH-CAP-GOLD-BL-...d=p3286.c0.m14 check it out :D Let me know ;) |
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I have wondered if you could do something like this without hurting the phone. I upgraded my G1 battery from the standard 1200mAh to a 2300mAh and did not notice anything negative.
Is there a reason NOT to do this? -- AM |
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It's OEM sized.... That's what tickled my fancy.
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Uhm, so how have they supposedly managed to make it 1930mah on the same battery technology and the same space? Sounds pretty dubious... And is the manufacturers name supposed to be "Original"... And the sale packages design is copied straight from Nokia.
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Yeah, I know. It's what makes me wonder.
You've never heard of Original? They're the best battery makers out there! LOL. I know it sounds really wako, but I was looking online to find some more BL-5Js (local) and that one came up as the second one! I am seriously considering buying an extended battery for the N900 when they become available (with the appropriate back). But hey! If I can get an OEM sized extended battery (if they ever really come out) then I'm all for it! I wonder if there is an app to check the MAH of a battery for Maemo... I wouldn't mind testing it out. It's not that expensive. But I'd need an app to test out the MAH used. |
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NiMH AA batteries are available with capacities from 1500 mAh to 3200 mAh, so I expect that Li-Ion batteries may have some variance in capacity per cubed millimetre as well.
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You can sometimes find the exact same battery sold from different places with very different specifications. There is some variation, but sometimes the shop just chooses to stretch the truth far too much.
The 1150mAh battery I currently have in my Palm PDA can sometimes be found advertised as 1500mAh, which is way above what's possible. People have measured this particular battery to vary between just above 1000 mAh to around 1200mAh. |
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So this leads back to my question:
Is there a reason to or not to use a battery with a higher mAh than the retail battery? |
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When li-ion/li-poly batteries go bad they go extremely (violently) bad. So, I tend to trust vendor-original batteries more than unknown ones. Some 3party batteries don't have the very important built-in protection circuit, for example. So, without knowing for certain, I won't trust them. But that's just me
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In theory it should work just fine. Just two problems with it.
A: Will it be rated capacity, or not? Nobody knows, hard to test subjectivly B: It's not a nokia battery, there have been cases in the past where there was a lot of fuss about using a 3rd party battery in a nokia device, losing warrenty, broken devices and especially getting very hot or even burning. My personal opinion is to just try it. See if it gives you better battery life then before doing your tasks and it if lasts longer, great! Share the experience! :) I have a Canon Powershot S60 with a factory battery and a cheap alternative battery which is suposed to have about 350 mAh more. I think they lasted the same in the beginning and over the years the cheaper one has lasted less and less long while the factory one remained strong. But hey, it only costed 1/3rd too. |
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But unless they have some kind of smart (non copy-able) chip on the battery, they'll have to do their battery verification by measuring the electrical properties from the opensource device :D Well ok, let's hope there's no locked down proprietary binary blobs around it. |
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I wholeheartedly agree with you sir. I had one of those extended batteries and after a few months I started to notice the back of my phone swell and there it was, a slowly expanding battery doomed to explode in my pocket.
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Well, regarding the larger capacity, I've seen applications (for Windows Mobile) that actually tell you the mAh expended in real time. So I kept that app open, and watched movies until the battery died. That was my test. usually +- 20 mAh is acceptable to me. But since this is Maemo, and I've never seen this OS at all or have looked for apps available as they're in repositories, I can't really check. But it's strange to find an app to monitory mAh consumption. Regardless, it's all about trial and error. Since that battery is listed to be compatible with a 5800, would anyone dare to try it out? I would, but I don't have a 5800 :( Otherwise I would do it. I'm soo pumped about the N900, I'm already buying backup batteries :P. This is going to be a great phone, as long as the keyboard is decent. And I'm going to need to get some decent battery life as well, even if I have to put it in GPRS/EDGE mode. On my Blackberry Bold I can't get a full day out of 3G. I doubt the N900 will be able to on a larger screen & with 3G on. So that's why I'm planing on getting the spare batteries. I'm thinking about buying this 1930 mAh battery. It's a really low investment :P until seidio comes out with one (doubt it, but they make EXCELLENT extended batteries). |
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I have used plenty of aftermarket batteries. Do yourself a favour and don't bother with them especially the ones on eBay.
They lie about their actual capacity. They are unreliable over time. They tend to lose capacity a lot quicker. They tend to cut corners and are not safe... I've experienced one which exploded and another which bulged. The big corps tries to source the best battery cells. They want to make their devices as small as possible and do not cut corners with safety. Some aftermarket entity doesn't have the same resources nor are they going to be better... The only aftermarket batteries that has lasted longer are those with bigger dimensions and comes with its own custom battery/back cover. Mugem seems to make quality batteries. Just search for feedbacks/reviews |
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Even the mugen batteries, which seem to be highly regarded here, have inflated claims and don't come close to their stated capacity. The big ones with new cover have better capacity than Nokia original though :) That ebay battery claiming to be made in Japan... Is that chinese text on it in Japanese font or what?:D |
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As for the question of battery capacity, your total number of cells determines your top end charge capabilities. For smart batteries with smart circuits, and a unified cell design, you simply control the maximum charge by changing the cell firmware. So by rights, a 1200mah battery and a 2500mah battery of the same size and form factor are identical (assuming the unified cell design), save for the cell firmware. Now as for the 1930mah battery, I call fake on that. It's got too much that cries fowl about it. |
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Gold battery, lol. Type BL-5J clearly meant to sound genuine.
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Although sometimes you need to resort to unofficial solutions like Badcaps.net I'd not do this with new device under warranty with a good battery. Instead, buy a second official battery, or buy a 3rd party battery when your primary battery has gone bad, or wait for a battery with a brand name and good track record (and therefore good name to defend) such as Mugen. |
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In my long ago days of R/C car racing we'd always pay more for higher capacity cells. Cheaper cells (fewer mAh) were also less likely to be matched (putting simiilar charge/discharge curved cells together in a pack). I can't imagine even with lithium-ion batteries companies would make high capacity cells and put them in a pack, cripple them with limiters (in a very loose sense) and then sell them as lower cap batteries. Maybe I'm misunderstanding Lord Raiden's take on what I quoted above, or "smart battery" production technology does not agree with me and appears wasteful and costly. I would hope that even the cell/portable device battery industry would work in the same manner, giving legitimate reason for charging more for a battery with higher capacity- because they are either harder to come by (elite picks from the QC department) or they cost more to make. I won't speak for misrepresentation of capacity by foreign knockoff battery brands. We all know we take risks buying cheap. YGWYPF |
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But a new third-party back cover with a big kickstand would be nice. |
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I'm always sceptical when it comes to cheap batteries. I've managed to bloat a couple of cheap lipos (while charging, with a proper charger. Talking rc batteries here) without doing anything wrong. If you're not there when it happens, so you can turn it off, things go bad. Very bad.
Here's a youtube video of some finnish rc guys demonstrating the bad mentioned above: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCWdnjLqVWw |
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Anyone has the gear to test this battery and compare it to a stock BL-5J ?
Also on the safety/construction side afterward ? :) |
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But I will be purchasing a second battery and an external charger (so I don't need the battery in the phone to charge it, that way every morning I'll have two ^^) hehe. |
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As I said, to save money they use one common battery, and then label and program them based on how they perform. So if you had the bios code for the smart chip, you *could* take your battery up to the higher capacity, but then it may or may not give you full capacity and may risk some nasty side effects. And again, this is using the unified cell design, similar to the BP-4L and others like it. This doesn't apply to the ones that use separate cells, where more cells = more MAH, such as laptop batteries. Another side note. Laptop batteries and multi-cell designs tend to be "dumb" batteries, in the fact that the smart charging chip is actually on the unit itself, and not the battery. Smaller devices like the NITs, phones and such have to offload that work to a tiny chip on the battery itself. |
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I'd be dubious about the battery too, but here is a device that measure battery discharge capacity (mAh). http://www.californiasailplanes.com/supertest.html. It says it works with NiCD and NiMD batteries, but it should work for any battery. I'm not sure of the normal load on the battery (mA), but I'd pick the 125mA setting, as to high of a setting could damage the battery.
Here a pricer option:http://http://www.siriuselectronics....roducts_id=348 The basic test method required integrating the battery's current over time. This is most easily done by connecting the battery in series with a current meter / multi-meter and a resistor (appropriately sized to give a reasonable current draw on the battery). Then measure the current over time (shouldn't change much till the battery nears the end of it's life). Plot the data; calculate the area under the curve and you have the battery's capacity in Amp-hours or mAmp-hours (depending on the units used). Assuming the maximum current draw on the battery is 100ma @ 3.7V, you'd need a 37ohm resistor (or something close). If the battery really is 1950mAh & you only drawings 100ma, this test would take 19.5 hours. |
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That product is only or RC toy batteries, and it's a bit dated considering it deals with the <1000mah battery group. What you need is a battery tester that specifically tests Lithium Polymer batteries.
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I will be interested in this battery for sure. |
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Apply Occam's Razor. Surely if such high capacity batteries were available, that did not have any downsides, Nokia would be using them as OEM?
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I think I would rather they put a firmware lock on batteries and be ripped off, than risk it blowing up in my pocket because its a poorly manufactured fake.
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Just give me a USB-connected wrist strap with an interior surface which absorbs and converts my body heat into energy to charge my device.
Heh, look hard enough and someone's probably already done it: http://www.jamesdysonaward.org/Proje...ct.aspx?ID=568 (might have to click the blue English button) We need someone here to start assembling some, I'm sure a well-deserved profit could be made from new N900 owners. Here's another concept which we'll see more of next year as they get dealers in other parts of the world http://www.pedalpower.com.au/ Now take your N900 on those rugged geocaching trips with no worries on fading power. I wish Nokia would offer a simple charging bracket/caddy you could use to charge a spare battery. Don't make it a one-piece unit that plugs directly into the wall like a block, but rather make it modular with a USB interface so you can charge it off a PC/laptop with a standard USB cable if needed or plug it in to a regular wall outlet from the same USB port.. |
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The correct method for measuring these batteries is not to run with a constant load as suggested, but to present a load which draws a constant power (current increasing as volatge drops). This more accurately mimics the expected use case for this type of battery, which is power some electrnoic device via a dc-dc converter. It also protects the battery by switching off at a predetermined voltage, to prevent cell damage.
I have an electronic load available, like this one :- http://www.teknetelectronics.com/Sea...026&pDo=DETAIL I don't have either battery, but if one of each (plus some method of charging them) were available, it would be trivially simple for me to test them. The load just logs voltage and a current into the PC, and switches off the load at the damage level of the battery automatically. I don't even have to be there! |
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Sadly, if you test enough of these things you get a bit blase about it (until one actually *does* burn your house down of course).
I kept a failed Electrovaya Powerpad on my test bench as a demo piece for several years. these things are 16V 8Ah and about the size of an A4 writing pad. This one swelled so much it was about 3 inches thick in the middle! |
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