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Jolla Solar Half prototype
I remembered last night that I had solar panel in my scrap box. The size was perfect for Jolla and a quick test proved that it can be used to charge Jolla too:
- voltage is about 6 V (measured with multimeter) - panel outputs 40-80 mA under a lamp (measured with multimeter) I haven't seen sun in a month or so here in Finland so the test was performed under 70 W halogen, distance ~10 cm. http://relativity.fi/jolla_solar_toh/solar_toh7.JPG More pictures: http://relativity.fi/jolla_solar_toh/ Today I modeled new other half for the panel and printed the new model. The panel fits nicely. I dit not take yet pictures from the inside, but I soldered some wire to the panel outputs and glued wires so that they are in contact with Jolla power pogo pins. UPDATE: Jolla's CSD tool shows charging current of -10 mA (at winter in Finland). This means the panel outputs about 100-110 mA at winter in Finland (the idle discharge current is about 100 mA). There's still room for 60-70 mA more, but this can be tested here when the sun is shining a bit higher at summer. Under the 70W lamp CSD tool shows +50-60 mA, so the panel is giving about 50 mA out but the battery is still discharging. The phone still says that charger is connected. UPDATE END I have to test the Solar Half more, but it indeed seems to be working rather nicely :cool: EDIT: .stl file available here: https://github.com/skvark/TheOtherHa...esolarhalf.stl EDIT2: I misinterpreted the CSD tool. Yes, the phone says it's charging and yes, the CSD tool says "Charging" but under a lamp the panel is just limiting the disharge current. If the battery is actually getting more juice, the current is shown as negative value. However, the original 70-100 mA is still realistic. |
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wow amazing other-half :D
I imagine your 70W lamp is really lower than the direct sun exposition ? |
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What a coincidence that your solar panel from your scrap box was a perfect fit for Jolla :D
I'd love to see something like this commercialized. Say...how much did you pay for that solar panel? (just a rough guess, I understand if you can't remember exactly) Thanks in advance. ~Chinoman10. |
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By my VERY approximate calculations, his solar panel received about 5W from his 70W lamp. Most of it in the wrong wavelenght. So getting 360-480mW out of it (6V x 60-80mA) is actually not too bad a result. |
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Next Jolla phone should have audios tech on the touch screen. That would eliminate need for a solar other half.
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I think it was 10 USD. Panel: http://www.parallax.com/product/750-00030 So it outputs in direct sunlight max. ~167 mA. |
Jolla Solar Half ProtoType 6V-2W (130mm-71mm)
Try to contact with some Solar Panel Factories to send you some test samples in the same size but with higher efficiency panels with specs such us 6V - 3W.
I already use 6V - 2W Solar Panel for my mobile phone Nokia 1020 (130mm*71mm). I measure in direct sunlight at 14:00 about 220mAh. Cost me 25 euros. |
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hmm.. seems that this is available in many places, though parallax is out of stock. e.g. Mouser.. Need to get one :)
just google "Solar Panel 6V @ 1W, 125 x 63 mm" |
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so, no components between the panel and the phone? so the phone has regulator that limits current for preserving 5v?
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EDIT: And you have to glue a plastic pin like in official TOH's to the panel next to the battery so the microswitch will trigger. Won't charge without it. Actually that's not true. It charges without the pin too. Hmm.. |
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microswitch, good to know!!
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so what happens if you plug the phone into the wall charger with this toh and pput it under the sun at the same time?
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maybe check dbus messages and see if you can differentiate between the two different power sources. if it is distinguishable, there might be hope.
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I expect bad things to happen if you plug in a wall charger and do not put the solar panel under the sun at the same time. Or even without the charger, depending on how it is wired.
The reason is that the photovoltaic cells suffer when subjected to reverse voltage. Which means, if you connect the panel to a voltage source higher than the voltage produced by the panel itself. So some sort of protection is essential. At least a diode if nothing else. This has been mentioned a number of times, for example here. Of course, your solar panel may have a diode built in, but I somehow doubt it. |
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13:48 < skvark> does someone know how jolla reacts if there are 2 chargers connected, another to the usb an another to the back power pins? 13:50 < Jonni> skvark: back power pins are disabled when usb cable is connected. 13:51 < Jonni> (and yes, I've tested it with my wireless charger toh) And I'll add a diode there to be sure that nothing bad happens if the voltage gets reversed. Edit: If there is a reverse protection already in Jolla, then the diode would be useless? |
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excellent! the pins are disabled when USB is connected. aaaaaaaah.
slightly off topic question: if the back power pins are disabled, will a TOH with a spare battery be impossible to charge when you plug in the wall charger? or is the reference in IRC only for input power pins? |
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How about printing the 2ndhalf so that there's an overhanging flap that covers the USB port when the solar kit is in use :D
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(of course you need to design it so that it does not add to the existing battery but replaces it) |
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Edit: juiceme has the answer for you :) |
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This is brilliant stuff! I'm really impressed and excited by this!
@skvark - I downloaded and printed a copy of your 'other half', it came out really nice, but sadly, it doesn't quite fit the phone in the length. It was that tight that it started to bow the phone so off it came! I used Netfabb Basic to cut a section from the lower half of the model and stitched it back together in Blender. I'm going to my friends tomorrow to print it off, hopefully it won't be so tight!, perhaps we have some settings wrong on my mates printer, but when we measured the model the dimensions were as you set them. Has anyone else experienced the same thing?, I've added 1mm to the length of the model to compensate but I will also check the software for the printer again. Any info appreciated. Regards Mark |
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I will post back later tomorrow after another printing session! :) |
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I did some measuring with the CSD tool (= phone is in airplane mode and I have turned the tohd.service off). Charging current under the 70 W lamp stabilized to 50-60 mA and some spikes go to 70-80 mA. If the CSD tool can be trusted (and the panel is actually charging the phone, like the phone and the tool says), there should be about 1% more battery every ~30 mins. To confirm this, I ran a short test:
I started testing at 18:00 (battery level was 85 %). Strange thing is that the UI does not update the battery level without a reboot (bug?). So I rebooted the device couple of times during the loading period. After every reboot there's was always 1% more battery level. Reboots were at 18:45 and 19:45. After the second reboot device reports battery level of 87 %. So getting 1% takes more than 30 mins. Some conclusions: - the 1W (125x36mm) panel is enough to upkeep the battery level and to charge the phone very very slowly (under a lamp, sunlight it would be maybe 2-3 times faster) - for faster charging more efficient panel is needed |
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very cool stuff
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The panel size is actually 125x63 (made a typo, not 36mm), so it gets close to 2W. |
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Just for imformation:
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1485#Technical_Details http://www.adafruit.com/images/medium/1485_MED.jpg This one is only 0,77 mm thick! :D . |
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Sunny day today :) It seems that the CSD tool is showing negative current when the battery is loading even though there's is text "Charging" when it's positive too (I should have noticed this earlier...). The tool shows now -10 - +10 mA current when the phone is in sun (there's some snow in the air).
So the earlier results are ok but they have been just limiting the discharge current (though I don't still get how the battery can go from 85 to 87 % in 2 hours during the last test when it should have been going down to 83% :confused: (EDIT: this is because the phone was most of the time in stanby though I'm not sure did I have the NFC bug workaround in use during testing). So the panel gives at winter in Finland about 100-110 mA output, which is still 60-70 mA short from the max ouput. If the phone discharges at ~100 mA in idle (EDIT: Idle as in "screen on" and no software running. Standby current is about 10 mA when screen is of) , ~160-170 mA from the panel should result in 60-70 mA loading current. Better and a bit bigger panel should get to over 100 mA easily. EDIT: Of course if the phone is shut down you'll get the ~100-110 mA more juice per hour. |
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Hi skvark,
I have a solar panel prized out of a solar charger and as I don't have a soldering iron (yet), I'm using copper tape to 'replace' wires. My main confusion and question, is which of the GPIO pins am I to connect to on the rear of the phone?, I first thought it was the GROUND and 5V+ (which are side by side), am I right or wrong here?, I feel I'm so close to getting this working but am a little afraid of damaging the phone due to lack of 'electronics' knowledge - any info gratefully received, Regards, |
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Thanks Skvark,
that is how I have it connected, but the CSD tool isn't indicating that any charge is being created. The panel is definitely working, as I have a very powerful high intensity discharge lamp to work with (400 watts), which send my multimeter off the scale!, but I don't know what the specifications of the panel actually are. I think perhaps I should find a different way to hook up to the inputs/outputs. How have you made your connections? Regards, |
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Do you have the panel datasheet or link to manufacturer page? Are you sure the connection to the pogo pins is ok (there's voltage in the copper tape, usually only the other side of the tape is conductive because there's glue at the other side)? |
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Hi,
i'd like to ask if these panels would be suitable for solar TOH: http://www.flexsolarcells.com/PowerF...Components.php I'd probably used two SP3-37 - but they make 6V - could this damage the phone? Would the voltage drop enough (to 5V) when the battery starts charging? Would it be possible to cover part of the panel to drop the voltage to 5V? Thanks! Radek |
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sorry for a late reply and thanks for getting back to me. PANEL DETAILS - The panel was removed from a solar charger, of which I believe is; 5.5v 100mA http://www.paramountzone.com/solar-m...ne-charger.htm POGO CONNECTION - As far as I am able to see, my strips of copper tape are in contact and aligned with the pogo pins and the polarity is also correct. Yes, you're right the copper tape has adhesive. https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/...28313292_o.jpg COPPER TAPE - As you can see, I have run the copper tape in one length strips to the corresponding pins. I realise this is not the best way to make the conenction, but it's all I have at my disposal, for now. The original wires that were soldered onto the solar panel had left quite a blob of solder behind, so I feel quite certain, coupled with meter readings, that voltage is being carried along the tape, not that the Sailfish CSD tool seems to show any changes in voltage supply. Regards, EDIT: It only bloody works!! (My connection, where the old blobs of solder are just not quite making contact), but with reasonable pressure on the panel, it connects and charges! Yay! https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...84424932_o.jpg What do you glean from the reading on the phone's screen, Skvark?, good, bad? Regards, |
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That 136 mA is imho very high discharge rate for the phone. My phone gives about 100 mA when running the discharge tool without the solar panel. With the panel CSD tool shows discharging rate of 50-60 mA (lamp) / 0 - -10 mA (sunlight) (= panel gives 40-50 mA (lamp) / 100-110 mA (sunlight)). Do you have multimeter to measure the panel real mA output? |
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EDIT: cat /sys/devices/platform/msm_ssbi.0/pm8038-core/pm8xxx-adc/dcin Result: 4522986 Raw: 32421 So phone says 4,52 V (cloudy sky). This may get a bit closer to 5 V if I make better connections :D Take this with a grain of salt but it seems to be safe to use 6 V panels. |
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I do have a multimeter. I'm no expert at using it. With a 20 watt lamp over the panel, I get an output of around 5mA (again I maybe reading this wrong), or do I add a zero and it becomes 50mA? My apologies for being a dickhead where this is concerned, I did all this at school, many. many, years ago and have forgotten ALL OF IT! :D :( Thank you for your help so far :) |
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