N900 has traded ability to manipulate page for gray hash. IPhone has traded it for white paper. E7/Symbian in general doesn't. As the review says, it prefers to render first, rather than allow interaction sooner. That's why it's jerky until it's loaded, and that's why it's faster in many cases - it puts all its might behind renderer, grossly ignoring user. Can be frustrating for large pages over poor connection.
If you prefer the sacrifice in reverse, Opera Mobile and Opera Mini are both available and render in N900-vividity range, full pages, can swap user-agent, etc. Poorer support for Flash, however, as I understand it. It's still a choice rather than good versus bad, and it makes it (say what you will) faster, by the definition of faster, not by feel. Which is, it will finish first given equal conditions.
You can declare whatever you wish as whatever you wish. Both N900 and E7 are better browsers than iPhone, and E7 versus N900 are very different browsers. However, "sucks" is not a benchmark. There's fidelity (N900), speed (E7) and smooth(iP). There are many a parameter to a browser. And many a site. As a result, things are different for each and tradeoffs exist. That's why browser benchmarks and reviews are 20 pages long. But I suspect you already have a favorite, and the others suck.
This is a review not a court of law. I don't give a flying duck who's fault is what.
I was aware at the start of this endeavor that I would find people who'd disagree - I'm surprised it's not a riot, considering the review declares E7 a winner on several fronts - some of which have been the undisputed domain of N900 at some point. This is one of those cases. Have fun disagreeing.