Unfortunately reviews of that tone are going to be the vast majority.
People that do these reviews...
Rarely try to assess the device they're reviewing thoroughly.
Esp. if it's an entirely new OS/UI/ecosystem etc.
The only review I've read where there's been in-depth/well-considered analysis, was GSMArena's.
And even that review didn't really convey the total picture.
Reviews -by their nature- are too flawed/limited unfortunately