@woody14619,

Yes. You go here http://tablets-dev.nokia.com/maemo-d...-downloads.php, Click "I accept", and then download the SDK image (Lucid Desktop should contain everything). Then you unpack the .7z file and extract the vmware image (.vmx and .vmdk files)

The README file contains instructions of how to set it all up.

Documentation and tutorials (scratchbox, Eclipse/ESbox, etc.) can be found here:
http://library.maemodocs.nokia.com/fremantle/index.jsp

It's true that it's a mess, but in the end you can have an environment where gcc, make, etc. can be used to compile a program.. I have (so far) only tested compiling the N900 kernel, and it worked OK.