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Posts: 80 | Thanked: 79 times | Joined on May 2012 @ Northern Italy
#13
Originally Posted by independent View Post
You know, the full-sized plugs float around in the socket. The snug-ness of the micro USB connection might prevent damage to the actual pins? Just a thought..
From what I've seen, the fact that full-size ports aren't super-snug is a big plus. If everything is completely snug every little movement of the plug gets transmitted to the socket; if it's floating around a bit, there's some leeway before the socket mounting points have to withstand significant force.
As for the solidity of the electric connection, USB type-A is surprisingly resilient; the size of the contact pads has a lot to do with this.

Originally Posted by Estel View Post
Hoever, on 99% of devices, microUSB port is soldered only to surface of PCB, where roughly 70% (from practice, not scientifically measured) of miniUSB ports were soldered through holes in PCB, and definitely 100% of normal-sized USB ports are made this way.
I concur. It's a good idea in theory, but it's useless unless the ports are soldered through-hole. I wonder who the hell thought it was a good idea to replace through-hole miniUSB with anything surface-mount, regardless of the shape and mechanics in the port itself.
Also, I don't really see the necessity of moving away from miniUSB; the shape is small enough for everything that can mount microUSB and the keying of the port is unmistakable, whereas microUSB keying can still be mistaken if one is not careful.

In fact, it's the "demolition" you have made inside case - under camera space - that shocked me more, than a "outside look" of Your device.
I had no other choice. I tried routing the cables around the camera module, but the casing wouldn't fit. I tried putting them under it, but then the module itself wouldn't stay in place, and again the casing wouldn't fit. It soon became clear that some plastic had to go.

Another approach would be to cut some of unnecessary plastic from under secondary board (one with camera flashlight and microSD), and run cables through there.
There is less risk of damaging stuff by cutting off casing plastic, which is essentially inert, than by removing material under a board that must stay in its position if the camera is to work properly. I could have placed some tape or something where I cut the casing plastic away, but I don't particularly care how the device looks when the back cover is removed. Or indeed when it isn't, otherwise I wouldn't have a big glop of melt-glue on the side of it.

You're planning to add power-mat to device, for wireless charging?
Not at all, what I have in mind concerns the battery. It's a surprise.

Originally Posted by sixwheeledbeast View Post
I wouldn't hold your breath.
Ok then, let me put it this way: I'm hoping someone comes up with a way to install Linux-based systems in devices originally meant to run Android.
We've only got marketing to thank for the impossibility of doing this today, as the devices themselves are more than capable if the locks are defeated and drivers are available. I'm hoping enough lock cracking and homemade driver writing happens to allow this to work. I'd gladly help if I had any programming abilities whatsoever, but I don't, so I hope. And as they say, hope springs eternal.

Last edited by Fallingwater; 2012-08-24 at 11:33.
 

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