Maybe you can try modRana ? Even though it doesn't currently support directly loading KML files, it should be relatively easy to convert them to the GPX format modRana supports using the GPSbabel conversion tool.

How to load tracklogs to modRana ?
ModRana loads tracklogs from sub folders in the /home/user/MyDocs/tracklogs folder. The sub folders are used for category names. So for example placing your GPX tracklogs to the /home/user/MyDocs/tracklogs/MyTracklogs will result in them showing up in the MyTracklogs category in the Tracklogs submenu in modRana.

Not using any maps
There are basically two possibilities:

Using an empty map layer: can be selected in Options->Map->Map layers

Disabling map tile download in Options->Network->Network usage

Alternatively you can pre-load the map tiles at home and then disable map tile download once on your way.

modRana also supports track logging
This feature can be accessed from the log a track submenu. GPX is used as the output format and the logging itself should be quite robust (you should get an uncorrupted log even if the software or the device crashes during logging).


So thats it, hope it helps.