maemo-mapper: this seems the most polished. you can download pois (though i've had some probs, see separate thread), route maps, change map repositories, etc. re-routing requires online access, which is a problem. the map sizes are also HUUGE at a reasonable detail level.
roadmap: similar to the above. cool 3D view possible. doesn't seem to support POIs.
navit: vector mapping, has some potential. i haven't been able to enter waypoints successfully. i've managed to extract a map of the eastern u.s. taking up 600 megs, which isn't bad.