Talk about bad timing. I read this about an hour after it was posted. In the meantime, as chance would have it, I'd been following etrunko's instructions to install using dpkg.

Anyway, despite what etrunko says, I do think it was worth the effort. It seems to me that evince addresses the two major problems with the PDF viewer. It has continuous scrolling, which gets around the absence of an easy way, in the PDF viewer, of moving from one page to another.

And it allows you to zoom to 175% which for many documents is about the optimal point between sideways scrolling and carrying a magnifying glass.