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Posts: 3 | Thanked: 7 times | Joined on Feb 2019 @ China,Shandong
#1
sorry for my English,
I have bought a n900, but it doesn't have back cover.
So I plan to use my 3Dprinter make one.
I believe this can solve the problem once and for all,and help others.
However, I don't have it model.Could you scan your back cover and publish.
Thanks
 

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Posts: 1,994 | Thanked: 3,342 times | Joined on Jun 2010 @ N900: Battery low. N950: torx 4 re-used once and fine; SIM port torn apart
#2
I wish for it as well. Battery cover wasn't scanned here: http://neo900.org/stuff/werner/scans/

I might have access to a 3D scanner, but even then, battery cover is a very intricate object, so it's quite rare to see a 3D scanner that can pick up on this level of detail.

Also, battery cover from Nokia isn't just a piece of plastic - it has a metal spring inside, for camera lens cover. I wish there was a 3D model of Mugen battery cover - it's a tad simpler, no moving parts.

Thank you. Best wishes.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Per aspera ad astra...
 

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#3
I have a bit of experience designing 3D models for FDM printing, mostly ABS plastic. I would recommend designing a cover that is not a copy of the one that came with the N900.
You will need a magnet to activate the SD card Hall sensor, a white/black strip you can move back and forth over the camera cover optical sensor (turns camera and app on/off), and 'fingers' to engage the snap-in points in the main body of the N900.
thinking about it, if you have a lase cutter cut a rectangular base and consider adding printed inserts in the N900 to receive screws that run through your cover.
Of course run a high temp, I find 255C works for me, and acetone fusing after the print help make a stronger part; but FDM printing will never be even close to as strong as an injection molded part.
 

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#4
Originally Posted by Pengun View Post
sorry for my English,
I have bought a n900, but it doesn't have back cover.
So I plan to use my 3Dprinter make one.
I believe this can solve the problem once and for all,and help others.
However, I don't have it model.Could you scan your back cover and publish.
Thanks
Where are you from? I have here a brand new back cover, to give away. So you can have this one. You just have to pay for transport.
Of course it would be nice if you would scan it for others, so that they print their own if needed, or make a variation of it
 

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Posts: 3 | Thanked: 7 times | Joined on Feb 2019 @ China,Shandong
#5
Originally Posted by Fellfrosch View Post
Where are you from? I have here a brand new back cover, to give away. So you can have this one. You just have to pay for transport.
Of course it would be nice if you would scan it for others, so that they print their own if needed, or make a variation of it
thanks for your help.I have bought one.I am waiting for it.I think I will scan it after getting it.
 

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#6
Originally Posted by biketool View Post
I have a bit of experience designing 3D models for FDM printing, mostly ABS plastic. I would recommend designing a cover that is not a copy of the one that came with the N900.
You will need a magnet to activate the SD card Hall sensor, a white/black strip you can move back and forth over the camera cover optical sensor (turns camera and app on/off), and 'fingers' to engage the snap-in points in the main body of the N900.
thinking about it, if you have a lase cutter cut a rectangular base and consider adding printed inserts in the N900 to receive screws that run through your cover.
Of course run a high temp, I find 255C works for me, and acetone fusing after the print help make a stronger part; but FDM printing will never be even close to as strong as an injection molded part.
I think your thoughts are great.Maybe I will design one after making straight how it works.I think 3Dprinting would help further works, like change battery.
 

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#7
I see now I made a mess of bad spelling and incomplete sentences. I was typing too quickly.
I meant to say laser cut the bottom shell though FDM 3D printing would be fine too, and then make the pieces which stick up from the base you have made.
With overhanging parts I recommend printing separately and then using acetone-ABS plastic glue to join them together, it is much stronger than a badly fused overhang one piece FDM print.
I am sure you already know that you also need to do post print processing with acetone to strengthen the print fusion, and sand, wire brush, and sometimes trin or fix small parts like the 'fingers' which grip things like the way the battery cover is held on.
Since these fingers can't really ever be very strong I recommend the printed screw receiver inserts, this is better than a cover which falls apart constantly.
 

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#8
would be good to have a database of parts on thingiverse or elsewhere, i have enough spare parts, but the scanner part is lagging behind
 

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#9
First a big hey-o to dr-frost-dk!!
Secondly, yea I could contrib, but we need a project plan, a to-do checklist, and what is needed; then yes thingiverse is a great long term repo.
Currently only something like four objects there for the N900.

Last edited by biketool; 2019-02-20 at 19:02.
 

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