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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to wotevah For This Useful Post: | ||
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2010-07-30
, 04:04
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Posts: 515 |
Thanked: 259 times |
Joined on Jan 2010
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#112
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Originally Posted by wotevah
Funny thing is there is already a delay but its short and sometimes I have no idea when the camera has started and stopped. So in addition to the timer above would it be possible to light the lower left corner status LED to shine green and then after the camera button has been actuated it stays red until the camera stops taking photos and flashes orange or blue when its writing. This way we know what is happening.
Delay Timer. Badly needed.
Also, if a delay timer is annoying for some people who want to take shots faster and don't have the luxury of time. Would it be possible to create a software button to take the photo. I like the previous comment where the histogram is reduced so it's not super wide. In the recovered space you can add a button to take the photo. For ergonomics you can move them to the top but even if its at the bottom its fine.
BTW, since we're on the topic of RFE's. Would it be possible to make Point AF on all the time even when the Point AF sub menu isn't selected (showing). Would love to be able to have Point AF on all of the time.
| The Following User Says Thank You to geohsia For This Useful Post: | ||
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2010-07-30
, 04:18
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Posts: 3,159 |
Thanked: 2,023 times |
Joined on Feb 2008
@ Finland
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#113
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Originally Posted by wotevah
yeah, just go home and cry while playing a martyr.
That's a rather disappointing and rude response to a post where I had hoped to contribute some ideas coming from the photography field, to complement a technically sound but perhaps less usable implementation.
Originally Posted by wotevah
fcam is the api
I'm going to try and address your points below.
"cam" is a customary shorthand for "camera", forgive me if I wasn't that accurate but I believe from the context it is clear what I am referring to.
fcamera is the app
no, you can't use shorthands in situations like this. the confusion with those two is bad enough without some guys intentionally talking with wrong names
Originally Posted by wotevah
and what about best of 8 -option?
Not really an acceptable answer when the solution is so simple. Then again, if I wanted not to shoot I can not shoot with the stock camera app just as well, I don't need an advanced app to not do it.
Originally Posted by wotevah
it is easier to read. I never liked dslr way of making histogram as small as possible. and it really doesn't take so much space...
Why ? There is no additional information in the extra-large bars, and every camera I have used has a small histogram to allow you to see the rest of what you are shooting.
Originally Posted by wotevah
even simplier physics:
Simple physics.
acceleration over time = speed
speed over time = distance
We assume the camera was static at focus time so not hard to calculate how much it moved.
error margins - sometimes those just are too big. the accelometer isn't the most accurate available etc... especially with closeups the error is probably unbearable. (and why do you need to focus again when focused to >1m, everything is then hyperfocally focused anyway...)
__________________
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K.I.S.S. approach:
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If the link doesn't help, just use
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2010-07-30
, 04:30
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Posts: 515 |
Thanked: 259 times |
Joined on Jan 2010
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#114
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Originally Posted by geohsia
I was playing with the app and let me change my mind. How about where the change the quit button to shutter actuation button. How then do you quit the app? When the lens cover is closed the actuation button disappears and is replaced by the Quit button. I think that works better plus you always remember to close the cover. Now, if you want to take a photo with the cover on, that's a different problem, but I think we can live with that.
I like the previous comment where the histogram is reduced so it's not super wide. In the recovered space you can add a button to take the photo. For ergonomics you can move them to the top but even if its at the bottom its fine.
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2010-07-30
, 04:52
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Posts: 31 |
Thanked: 35 times |
Joined on Jun 2010
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#115
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Originally Posted by ossipena
So, what happens in this magical world of yours, when people don't just go away like you tell them to ?
yeah, just go home and cry while playing a martyr.
Originally Posted by ossipena
Good option for single shot. Not a great option for compositing multiple images such as with HDR - you want a series of images to overlap as well as possible. At any rate, more complex of a solution than a simple 2s delay timer.
and what about best of 8 -option?
Originally Posted by ossipena
Yeah, ok. Can't argue with personal preference.
it is easier to read. I never liked dslr way of making histogram as small as possible. and it really doesn't take so much space...
Originally Posted by ossipena
Given that an hour ago you appeared baffled that someone would dare believe an accelerometer could be used to measure distance, it is just not very likely that you are suddenly well-versed in such matters to make the above statements on its feasibility for this project.
even simplier physics:
error margins - sometimes those just are too big. the accelometer isn't the most accurate available etc... especially with closeups the error is probably unbearable. (and why do you need to focus again when focused to >1m, everything is then hyperfocally focused anyway...)
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2010-07-30
, 05:19
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Posts: 31 |
Thanked: 35 times |
Joined on Jun 2010
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#116
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Originally Posted by geohsia
There's also the proximity sensor that could be used, I think.
I was playing with the app and let me change my mind. How about where the change the quit button to shutter actuation button. How then do you quit the app? When the lens cover is closed the actuation button disappears and is replaced by the Quit button. I think that works better plus you always remember to close the cover. Now, if you want to take a photo with the cover on, that's a different problem, but I think we can live with that.
One reason you might want to take a photo with the cover would be for a noise baseline or to map hot pixels. Some cameras can do that noise reduction automatically even: for exposures longer than a certain value, take a second identical one with the shutter closed and use that to subtract the noise from the first one.
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2010-07-30
, 05:34
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Posts: 515 |
Thanked: 259 times |
Joined on Jan 2010
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#117
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Originally Posted by wotevah
I don't like using the proximity sensor. I know that because I hit it all the time with that other app that allows for video that allows you to control focus and etc. I find that it doesn't work that well and is not clear. A button I think makes more sense.
There's also the proximity sensor that could be used, I think.
One reason you might want to take a photo with the cover would be for a noise baseline or to map hot pixels. Some cameras can do that noise reduction automatically even: for exposures longer than a certain value, take a second identical one with the shutter closed and use that to subtract the noise from the first one.
As for dark frame subtraction I don't know anyone that does that for each individual photo. It is simply impractical at the user level. I actually submitted an RFE for dark frame subtraction and fcamera can do that by forcing the shutter closed and then taking a photo for the same duration. This could be for longer exposures (longer than 1/30 or 1/2 second whatever the right threshold is for the N900). It is much easier if the camera handles that by itself and it can do it without having close the lens protector. It is a good idea though but would be handled differently. Plus you have to find a tool that does dark frame subtraction and you have to differentiate what is signal noise and what is just random noise. Dark frame isn't supposed to reduce random noise, but only the noise like signal noise that is predictable and recurring.
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2010-07-30
, 06:42
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Posts: 31 |
Thanked: 35 times |
Joined on Jun 2010
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#118
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Yeah, maybe the proximity sensor isn't such a great idea, I even disabled it from shortcutd for the same reason you mentioned.
As for tools, I know that dcraw can do this (dark frame subtraction).
Originally Posted by geohsia
Oh, absolutely. Was just trying to think of reasons one might possibly want to take a shot with the cover closed at some point. Not a big loss, apparently.
As for dark frame subtraction I don't know anyone that does that for each individual photo. [...] It is much easier if the camera handles that by itself and it can do it without having close the lens protector.
As for tools, I know that dcraw can do this (dark frame subtraction).
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2010-07-30
, 06:48
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Posts: 515 |
Thanked: 259 times |
Joined on Jan 2010
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#119
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Originally Posted by wotevah
I figured if there was any tool that could handle it dcraw could. I was thinking about Adobe products but yeah, hopefully the folks in Stanford figure this out. It's one way to get around noisy sensor by fixing the issue in SW.
As for tools, I know that dcraw can do this (dark frame subtraction).
BTW, do you use dcraw? If you do I want to ask you to try to remove color (chrominance) noise from RAW files with ISO 400+. LR has no affect. it saddens me because the main thing I look for for using RAW.
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2010-07-30
, 07:07
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Posts: 143 |
Thanked: 99 times |
Joined on Jun 2009
@ Houston
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#120
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Originally Posted by wotevah
way ahead of you. I've implemented this in fcamera (I'm not one of the developers - gotta love open source) and it's available here.
Delay Timer. Badly needed.
In fact, I've implemented a recurrent delay, so that you can make timelapse movies (even HDR and burst timelapses). there's a description and instructions in the same thread, a couple of posts up.
I spoke with the developers about integrating this into fcamera but they decided that they want to keep fcamera simple, as an example for others to build on. So, it seems all improvements we want will have to come from the community.
I don't think I have the programming chops or the time to be the mantainer of fcamera++ but I would certainly help. so, if someone wants to step up and take initiative...
PS: I'm not implying that th developers are abandoning fcamera. just that all improvements are to be done on a separate app and that they are looking for someone to be the mantainer of that project.
Last edited by tpaixao; 2010-07-30 at 07:39.
| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to tpaixao For This Useful Post: | ||
I'm going to try and address your points below.
acceleration over time = speed
speed over time = distance
We assume the camera was static at focus time so not hard to calculate how much it moved.