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| The Following User Says Thank You to eccerr0r For This Useful Post: | ||
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2013-08-20
, 10:05
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Posts: 5,028 |
Thanked: 8,613 times |
Joined on Mar 2011
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#1582
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Originally Posted by eccerr0r
There is no problem with making N900 to chew up ~1200 mA for prolonged time
From my tests with my N900 I've seen it chew up 700mA for short durations but fairly easy to make it draw ~500mA for relatively long stretches. I would guess that a good, standard 1.3AH BL5J battery should last around 1.5 hours minimal for the worst case usage from fully charged to flat.
I think the worst case "real" usage pattern is having a speakerphone phone call while having backlight on full blast and having it constantly route packets through 3G using ad-hoc wifi... Sound about right? Or maybe you can be playing a game at the same time
The battery shouldn't get warm when charging. This is a bad sign. The battery compartment may get warm during discharge but likely this is the GSM module or CPU sharing the heat... That 2000mAh cell may have high internal resistance and probably should be ...tossed...
As for heating, device *will* heat a little if charged at full power, or discharged with comparable high current, no matter if CPU is under load, or not. It is normal - ~1A current isn't small amount for device of this size. Fortunately, it's nothing extreme, as N900's heat dissipation factor is really good./Estel
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N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
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N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
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N900's HDMI-Out
-
Camera cover MOD
-
Measure battery's real capacity on-device
-
TrueCrypt 7.1 | ereswap | bnf
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Hardware's mods research is costly. To support my work, please consider donating. Thank You!
| The Following User Says Thank You to Estel For This Useful Post: | ||
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2013-10-12
, 00:20
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Posts: 277 |
Thanked: 285 times |
Joined on Dec 2011
@ Poland
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#1583
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I recently bought an original Nokia BL-5J 1430mAh battery. After two calibration cycles bnf shows capacity of 1568mAh, I guess that's another battery to consider.
Edit: I was calibrating up from 1200mAh.
Last edited by szymeczek34; 2013-10-12 at 00:31.
Edit: I was calibrating up from 1200mAh.
Last edited by szymeczek34; 2013-10-12 at 00:31.
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2013-10-17
, 04:19
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Posts: 78 |
Thanked: 84 times |
Joined on Aug 2012
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#1584
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Originally Posted by Wikiwide
Hi Wikiwide, sorry for the late reply. I bought 3x of the batteries over time and 1x failed. I have reason to believe the cells are anything but as reliable as a super high-tech li-ion cell can be. That is, a random failure.
Quick message...
I have just bought PolarCell ...
So, what do you think about it? Are the battery and charger reliable? How should I find the best way to repair the loose USB port of Nokia N900? At the very least, I will get a new USB cable with the charger... Next month, when it arrives.
Best wishes.
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Per aspera ad astra...
The Polarcell people have been really good to deal with so far, quick email responses. It has also been mentioned here that they could even be the same cell as the 1500mAh Blue Dream Scud (where do they think these names up?)..
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2013-10-17
, 09:11
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Posts: 1,424 |
Thanked: 2,623 times |
Joined on Jan 2011
@ Touring
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#1585
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It has been 6-9 months and I just have not remembered to post but I bought a pair of tan scuds to make a replacement double-scud. Unfortunately the connective strips were not compatible with standard lead/tin solder and electronic soldering flux. I suppose this is an important consideration and if we find others which are difficult to solder especially as I have had not had any problems with earlier tan scuds.
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2013-10-17
, 19:35
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Posts: 6,447 |
Thanked: 20,981 times |
Joined on Sep 2012
@ UK
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#1586
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Certain metals can be very difficult to solder. Aluminium is a typical example. The most common reason for this is a thin (a fraction of a nanometre) protective oxide layer. The trick to soldering these metals is to strip this layer, usually with an acidic flux, and creating an environment that prevents it from reformning by keeping the oxygen out.
There are special fluxes for such applications but a simple home-made trick is to use common Aspirin. It is acidic enough in the melted state to dissolve the oxide layer and, if used correctly, will keep the oxygen out. BUT - be very careful! Aspirin produces a lot of noxious fumes, make sure you have adequate ventilation. Also make sure that after soldering you clean everything that came into contact with it as it is a bit corrosive.
There are special fluxes for such applications but a simple home-made trick is to use common Aspirin. It is acidic enough in the melted state to dissolve the oxide layer and, if used correctly, will keep the oxygen out. BUT - be very careful! Aspirin produces a lot of noxious fumes, make sure you have adequate ventilation. Also make sure that after soldering you clean everything that came into contact with it as it is a bit corrosive.
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2013-11-05
, 17:53
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Posts: 104 |
Thanked: 113 times |
Joined on Apr 2012
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#1587
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my n900 with 3 BL-5j at the back and one inside
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2013-11-05
, 18:03
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Posts: 1,424 |
Thanked: 2,623 times |
Joined on Jan 2011
@ Touring
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#1588
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Originally Posted by pichlo
I was concerned about acid(conductive) in conjunction with a battery, didn't want to make a nice lithium bomb! Instead the day I was trying this I used some sapphire grit sandpaper on a dremel sanding wheel, even buffing off the top layer didn't allow the solder to adhere. This is surprising as I have managet to solder some surprising things. I suppose I might try to electroplate or micro arc welding some copper onto those strips and then soldering but then again there is the risk of shorting the battery or corrosion.
Certain metals can be very difficult to solder. Aluminium is a typical example. The most common reason for this is a thin (a fraction of a nanometre) protective oxide layer. The trick to soldering these metals is to strip this layer, usually with an acidic flux, and creating an environment that prevents it from reformning by keeping the oxygen out.
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2013-11-06
, 09:36
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Posts: 5,028 |
Thanked: 8,613 times |
Joined on Mar 2011
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#1589
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Originally Posted by szymeczek34
Yea, 1568 mAh looks quite legit for a *relative* capacity result during normal discharge. With polarcell's/scuds most people get ~`1750 mah relative capacity during natural usage calibration, so they're still better than original Nokia ones, especially for dual-battery building (where gain on single cell is doubled + reinforced even more, by discharge current being split between two cells)
I recently bought an original Nokia BL-5J 1430mAh battery. After two calibration cycles bnf shows capacity of 1568mAh, I guess that's another battery to consider.
Edit: I was calibrating up from 1200mAh.
Cheers,
/Estel
__________________
N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
-
N900's HDMI-Out
-
Camera cover MOD
-
Measure battery's real capacity on-device
-
TrueCrypt 7.1 | ereswap | bnf
-
Hardware's mods research is costly. To support my work, please consider donating. Thank You!
N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
-
N900's HDMI-Out
-
Camera cover MOD
-
Measure battery's real capacity on-device
-
TrueCrypt 7.1 | ereswap | bnf
-
Hardware's mods research is costly. To support my work, please consider donating. Thank You!
|
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2013-12-30
, 02:05
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Posts: 78 |
Thanked: 84 times |
Joined on Aug 2012
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#1590
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Pisen BL-5J are labelled 1400mAh now. They seem a tiny bit fatter than Polarcells. I got relative discharge of 1710mAh using bq27* script and a full discharge so over 1500mAh in real terms. I like Pisen cells and that's why I tried them out again. It was big news for me to see the additional capacity and as a bonus they are cheap too.
Last edited by independent; 2014-01-12 at 19:23.
Last edited by independent; 2014-01-12 at 19:23.
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| Tags |
| battery, battery test, best battery, good bad ugly, modding, mugen battery, scud battery, tool got banned, yasirrfc |
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I think the worst case "real" usage pattern is having a speakerphone phone call while having backlight on full blast and having it constantly route packets through 3G using ad-hoc wifi... Sound about right? Or maybe you can be playing a game at the same time
The battery shouldn't get warm when charging. This is a bad sign. The battery compartment may get warm during discharge but likely this is the GSM module or CPU sharing the heat... That 2000mAh cell may have high internal resistance and probably should be ...tossed...