I got 25 originally. No limit, no volume discount. Donate (of course over-donating welcome) and in that donation paypal form state the number of cells you need, your snailmail addr, and your email or IRC nick so I can contact you. Allow for a week processing time please.

/j

i want one as i stated beforehand but cannot donate

donated 20€
Need one rest is donation for maemo.org maintanenece
PayPal #: 9W437295L11051929

I'm sending out 3 standard letters with n+1 PAS414 (+1 for practicing ;-D "Dispose of properly! Please do not litter!")
N.N. By 116 3xxx F. Denmark 2
K.L. z.d.E. 21 4xxxx D. Germany 2
P.P. 1 S.E. O.14 n xx U.K. 4

/j

so far I hope I handled all requests. If you "ordered" and haven't heard from me for 4 weeks and not received the batteries already, please ping me joerg at openmoko org.

S.N. Il.gr. T:304 SE-2xxx L. is in the pipeline

feedback in here when letter arrived, in which condition, and how the rework panned out... all HIGHLY welcome ;-)

/j

I don't mind using my hour/date on battery changes, but I would mind if the battery leaks. Is the hour and date backup the only function of the battery? If so, how easy is it to just remove the battery?

Then again, if I remove the battery I might just as well solder in that capacitor. No soldering experience, though. What soldering equipment would I need to at least remove the battery?

And thanks for providing this information and the capacitors!

Is it possible for paying using other form of donation than paypal, for those that religiously doesn't use it? IDK, moneybookers, or whatever?

/Estel

You need a rather strong iron (some 40W minimum) for that. Unsoldering should be really simple, by pushing a carton or thin steel/alu sheet under the foot of battery cell while heating up the foot until solder melts. Soldering new cell needs at least basic experience with soldering. Ideally you clean the pads (use desoldering braid), (use flux and) wet them with a small amount of new lead solder (~60/40 multicore, max 1mm diameter), then likewise wet the feet of coin, again treat both the pads and the feet with no-clean SMT flux, then make sure you place the coin right way around on the pads and heat each foot until the tin reflows and foot connects nicely to the board. You should use sufficiently hot iron for that or you will overheat the battery cell (yes, since lower temperature causes longer processing time which heats up battery more than a short really hot spike). When you're an experienced solder iron artist, you may get away without flux, and you'll know how to solder that coin so it doesn't overheat. for the rest of you: everybody can do this when you use the right tools and solder and flux. But when you got one of them in the crappy variant or think of trying without flux for example - better don't!

The battery is not needed for anything relevant except RTC. Proof: N900 with broken bupbat work "flawlessly", except for losing date&time on battery swap. [edit] Note that the RTC also stores an alarm that boots up the device from power down when set. Of course this will also get lost when bupbat is defect and you swap main battery!


I hope I managed to process all orders and you all received your bupbat. If somebody didn't, please holler! This is not a planned scam

cheers
jOERG

I've managed to rip off the positive soldering pad (the bottom side of the bupbat) while replacing it on one of my spares. Clumsy me. I am not too hart-broken about that: it was the phone with non-working telephony that I use only for testing. The old battery was dead anyway, so I have not actually lost any functionality.

Still, does anyone know if there is an alternative pad somewhere else on the board?

Ideally you use TWO soldering irons (or so called soldering tweezers) to unsolder the coin.

C4257
position M8

it's parallel to bupbat. It's the only alternative pad.

/j