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2011-05-31
, 18:39
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Posts: 11,700 |
Thanked: 10,045 times |
Joined on Jun 2006
@ North Texas, USA
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#2212
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I have just read a few posts in this thread (I plan to cover it more in detail at work tomorrow ), and you're right, I am not at all confident with a soldering iron. So, epoxy is my only choice. Also, disassembling would only be my last choice.
So, my question is, if I use a pin or needle to apply the epoxy to the edges of the usb port without removing the casing, will it be enough? What should I do to prevent gluing the casing shut?
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2011-05-31
, 18:42
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Posts: 11,700 |
Thanked: 10,045 times |
Joined on Jun 2006
@ North Texas, USA
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#2213
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I thought this was what you would tell me and it has flaws... no arguments here at all between us, we are debating this.
In order to do an epoxy job the area must be cleaned prior to ahesion and you cannot do this through the tiny gap around the usb port.
For a proper expoxy you would have to apply very firmly onto the top sides and rear of the port itself and this is impossible for the reasons i just said.
The average solderer can take the N900 apart and put it back together again as there is a full picture guide to do this.
If only you knew how easy this solder fix is and the results then you would agree with me no epoxy.
When your soldering the sides of the port down to the board it is nothing like you have to do on the rear tiny tracks of the port in any way or form, ths sides are clearly visable and you can do this work without even a magnifier in place.
I have worked with epoxy on many boards to know how problematic it can be and the most important part of this is the preperation prior to applying the epoxy glue to make sure it is not hindered in any way or form with grease as it will fail.
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2011-05-31
, 18:42
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Banned |
Posts: 3,412 |
Thanked: 1,043 times |
Joined on Feb 2010
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#2214
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I wouldn't use a regular pin or needle. I'm talking about a hollow solvent dispensing needle on a syringe: http://www.ashbycross.com/syringes.htm (one example)
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2011-05-31
, 18:47
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Banned |
Posts: 3,412 |
Thanked: 1,043 times |
Joined on Feb 2010
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#2215
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2011-05-31
, 18:49
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Posts: 11,700 |
Thanked: 10,045 times |
Joined on Jun 2006
@ North Texas, USA
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#2216
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And how are you going to scrub clean all around the port? and how are you going to prevent the glue from getting onto the casing inside of ?.
The Following User Says Thank You to Texrat For This Useful Post: | ||
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2011-06-01
, 01:36
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Banned |
Posts: 3,412 |
Thanked: 1,043 times |
Joined on Feb 2010
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#2217
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2011-06-01
, 01:53
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Posts: 5,795 |
Thanked: 3,151 times |
Joined on Feb 2007
@ Agoura Hills Calif
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#2218
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The Following User Says Thank You to geneven For This Useful Post: | ||
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2011-06-01
, 15:05
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Posts: 145 |
Thanked: 91 times |
Joined on Jun 2010
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#2219
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2011-06-06
, 11:40
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Posts: 27 |
Thanked: 10 times |
Joined on Mar 2010
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#2220
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Tags |
bad design, broken, charging, failure, hardware, loose, microusb, microusb port, n900, nokia, part, port, repair, return, surface mount, usb, usb port, warranty |
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In order to do an epoxy job the area must be cleaned prior to ahesion and you cannot do this through the tiny gap around the usb port.
For a proper expoxy you would have to apply very firmly onto the top sides and rear of the port itself and this is impossible for the reasons i just said.
The average solderer can take the N900 apart and put it back together again as there is a full picture guide to do this.
If only you knew how easy this solder fix is and the results then you would agree with me no epoxy.
When your soldering the sides of the port down to the board it is nothing like you have to do on the rear tiny tracks of the port in any way or form, ths sides are clearly visable and you can do this work without even a magnifier in place.
I have worked with epoxy on many boards to know how problematic it can be and the most important part of this is the preperation prior to applying the epoxy glue to make sure it is not hindered in any way or form with grease as it will fail.