hey guys m using my N900 since 1 and half years and i didnt got any problem with it but today itself my cell usb socket broke down i bought new usb bt the problem is track line is damaged the 4-5 track line of usb so... could u plz help me how to fix it and fix the track in manner......

Help yourself and read first post in this thread.

Despite the fact that you're *trying* and *failing* to be bitt(ch)y, You're widely inaccurate on your interpretation of text that you read He just mentioned, that his friend - without working USB port - must live with transferring his files via bluetooth, instead of just connecting via USB to desktop.

Little suggestion - could you consider writing only, when You really have something worth writing?

/Estel

Wish I saw this thread earlier .

Managed to do a repair on mine today. It had been loose for a while but this morning i got nothing..
Did a stripdown to mainboard (it was due a clean after 2 years!), found thr port had come away on one side but would clip back in position under pressure.

I cut and folded some PVC electricians tape and forced it between the USB port and the bord above it to hold it place, very solid. Put back together again - working fine now.

To protect the port I ripped the secure clips out of the usb cable.

DarkGUNMAN, wishing You the best, but I would not call it permanent solution. Why not just solder it back again, + apply scratch-solder solution on sides?

....I would suggest to anyone looking at the blue_led's photos to solder the micro usb shield also to the rear part of the mainboard creating a sandwich situation that makes the micro usb indestructible (avoiding that a pull too rough could break the solder or the mainboard copper shield)

I have made so, and i can ensure a super microusb port!

I was a tad lucky that the clips on my power adapter from Nokia were actually faulty. It clipped in so well that even pressing the side areas to lower them didn't work. I wound up using a pin to release them, then filed them off, all on day one. And to avoid similar problems, I did the same to the USB cable as well. I at first regretted that, since a slight bump would sometimes unmount the device. But when this issue started becoming more common I saw it as a blessing.

Mind you, this can happen with any port. I had the same thing happen to a mini-usb port on my GPS a year or so ago. Just over time the stress ripped it off the board. It even had a couple via posts, which had apparently snapped one at a time until it was just the solder holding it on.

One thing I'm looking forward to is some of the new tech coming down the road where the batteries themselves have an inductive charge circuit baked in. Samsung is looking at this for their next line of batteries. It's not as power efficient as direct copper contacts, but would solve issues like powering the device if it's got a weak port, or the port breaks.

Thanks everybody for this documentation! I've finally done it yesterday, using epoxy.

Epoxy was easier to apply using a needle (and no risk to melt components like with soldering), and no need to round any corner or to cut any piece of plastic to put the cover. I advise everyone who don't feel confortable with soldering to use this method.

I had the same problem during the reassembly. I couldn’t put it under the keyboard, so I screwed the screen first, and then I put the keyboard under it.

However, I have an other problem: for me the more difficult part of the manipulation was to reassemble the screen to the back part: there is a flex connector back the screen, who needs to be replaced exactly onto the corresponding chip on the board. Does anyone have a method to do it? I have been very careful with it but it seems not to have been replaced correctly: this morning it worked but now the phone works, the led works, but the screen no longer works. I have to reopen...

Furthermore, during the disassembly, I noticed there was an oxidized stack (there is a type of green acid on it). I think it's the reason why when I remove the battery and reboot the phone, I always have to reset the date and region. May it cause trouble in the futur?

edit: I have reopened it once, and I still have the same black screen problem!

final edit: IT WORKS! I've noticed there was 4 pin at the corners of the flex connector, that must be put inside the corresponding notches (slide open it's easier, with the edge of the screen along the keyboard like there or there). It's quite meticulous (I've re-open 4 times), because it's not realy hoocked.


DONE!

Just finished doing this a few minutes ago. I have to say, I don't know what I was thinking... After opening it up, I didn't realize how small/tight it would be to work on it. I guess the macro pics everyone posted looked deceiving. I did get it done with the wrong tip of the soldering iron (it was to big). Hopefully I did a good enough job for it to be held down. Thanks for the pics and documentation.